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scifiguy
10-26-2011, 07:47 PM
I am currently set up for DishPro LNBs.
I have 3 FTAs. Currently using D500 w/ DishPro LNB.
I am using a DP34 Switch.

So my FTAs are setup for

LNB Type = SingleDishPro LNBF
IF Freq = 11250
Diseqc 1.0 = Port 1 for 119, Port 2 for 110

I am told that 1000.4 has built-in switch so I can eliminate the DP34.

So I am planning to run 3 cables in from the dish. I currently have no use for the 129 as I have no HD but this will set me up for the future. The 119 and 110 Should work right out of the box. I see some peps have trouble with this dish feeding 1 FTA cause of the power but I am feeding 3 FTA so hopefully I will be OK. Am I good to go or do I need to do sumthin other than above.

What is the difference between DishPro and DishPro Plus?

Thank you for your kind advice.

homer_™
10-26-2011, 09:08 PM
The Dish 1000.4 is an eastern arch dish. you will not be able to get 110.119 & 129 with that one
http://sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Dishnetwork/Dishes/Dish-19.jpg

scifiguy
10-26-2011, 10:00 PM
Thank you for your response but the one that I have has a Western Arc LNB made just for 110, 119 & 129.

I think if you look carefully at the literature or do a Google you will find the one that I have. Same dish but different LNB.

homer_™
10-26-2011, 10:13 PM
I believe it's a dish 1000.2 that you have. You will still need the DP34 if you are running three receivers. If you were using one receiver you would only need to run one line straight to the box

Terryl
10-26-2011, 10:16 PM
I am currently set up for DishPro LNBs.
I have 3 FTAs. Currently using D500 w/ DishPro LNB.
I am using a DP34 Switch.

So my FTAs are setup for

LNB Type = SingleDishPro LNBF
IF Freq = 11250
Diseqc 1.0 = Port 1 for 119, Port 2 for 110

I am told that 1000.4 has built-in switch so I can eliminate the DP34.

So I am planning to run 3 cables in from the dish. I currently have no use for the 129 as I have no HD but this will set me up for the future. The 119 and 110 Should work right out of the box. I see some peps have trouble with this dish feeding 1 FTA cause of the power but I am feeding 3 FTA so hopefully I will be OK. Am I good to go or do I need to do sumthin other than above.

What is the difference between DishPro and DishPro Plus?


Thank you for your kind advice.


NO, you can't use two or more receivers to try and power this type of LNB (or the Dish 1000.2 LNB) as only one (1) receiver will power the LNB, this is due to blocking diodes on the LNB's other receiver output ports, (ports 2 and 3) with out these blocking diodes the other receivers power supply's would fight for dominance of the power circuit, only the one with the highest DC voltage and current output will win, the others will just sit there doing nothing except maybe having their power supplies damaged.

The DC power supply in the FTA receiver is not like a battery where you can put several together and get more juice out of it, (current) the power supplies in the FTA receiver have DC voltage regulators that can't be synchronized with the other receivers power supplies voltage outputs, a battery doesn't care it can do this as its a chemically derived voltage and will auto balance the voltage outputs with out damage, the AC to DC power supply has to have a voltage sensing input and output voltage synchronization circuits in them, the supply in the FTA receiver are too cheaply built to have these circuits in them.


This is why some use an old inactive Dish or BEV receiver or a DPP switch power inserter to run the 3 head LNB, the dish receiver and DPP power inserter have more DC current output then the normal FTA receiver.

Also any DC power supply with a 750 mA + 14 to +20 volts DC output will work as long as it has a power inserter for the coax, dont stick the DC supply directly on to the coax, this will FUBAR things.

Also most FTA receivers don't play well the DC power inserter's, you should run the power inserter on it's own seprate coax to port #1 on the LNB, ports #2 and #3 will run the receiver(s) just fine if done this way, you can also run a second external LNB when it's done this way as port #4 will supply the DC voltage and current for that LNB to do so.

scifiguy
10-26-2011, 10:41 PM
Terryl,

I have an old SW44 w/ an old legacy power inserter. Could I use that power inserter just to power port 1 on the LNB?

scifiguy
10-26-2011, 10:50 PM
Another thought...

I have no use for the 129 LNB at this time. I believe that is on port 3. What if I put an old DN IRD on that port and use ports 1 and 2 to feed my existing DP34?

Would that work?

scifiguy
10-26-2011, 11:23 PM
Quick note:
I looked at the instructions that came with the dish. It says D1000.4 EA and D1000.4 WA Installation Instructions so apparently this dish is the D1000.4 WA version. The instructions show both the Eastern Arc and the Western Arc LNBs.

scifiguy
10-30-2011, 12:13 PM
Replying to my own thread to post what actually worked...

As stated above, dish is 1000.4 WA.

OK. I fed power to LNB @ port 3 from an old 301 DN IRD.
That left 119 on Port 1 and 110 on port 2. I fed those to my DP34 and that works just fine.

For my next experiment I will try feeding power via port 1 of the DP34 from the DN IRD. That will hopefully get me 3 useable outputs on ports 2 - 4 of the switch. It will also get me back the 129 bird as I can hook that to input 3.

So far I have had some fun just trying this stuff to see what works.

n3uspeed2
10-30-2011, 12:22 PM
[QUOTE=homer71™;539520]The Dish 1000.4 is an eastern arch dish. you will not be able to get 110.119 & 129 with that one

There are two types of lnbf for the the 1000.4 bro...
*dish 1000.4 EA provides signal from satellites 61.5W, 72.7W, and 77W, with the DISH PRO PLUS 1000.4 LNBF
*This dish 1000.4 WA provides signal from satellites 110W,119W, and 129W, with the DISH PRO PLUS 1000.4 LNBF.


hxxp://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Dishnetwork/Dishes/Dish-1000point4.htm

n3uspeed2
10-30-2011, 12:24 PM
Quick note:
I looked at the instructions that came with the dish. It says D1000.4 EA and D1000.4 WA Installation Instructions so apparently this dish is the D1000.4 WA version. The instructions show both the Eastern Arc and the Western Arc LNBs.

Sorry I didn't see that you already mentioned there are two lnbf tyoes for the 1000.4

n3uspeed2
10-30-2011, 12:28 PM
Another thought...

I have no use for the 129 LNB at this time. I believe that is on port 3. What if I put an old DN IRD on that port and use ports 1 and 2 to feed my existing DP34?

Would that work?

You can try that...I use to use a dp34 for a dp500+ the problem was sometimes it would work fine.....I put a old reciever on port 1....but sometimes I would have a switching issue...for example your on a channel on 119 but your reciever is locked on 110. Sometimes you will also could find no signal errors. In Some recievers I've seen the recievers reboot in a continuous manner.l You can test it out if it doesn't work get a dp44. But Terryl can explain that better then I can. I've always gone to him for advise on hardware he knows his stuff.

WillDekkard
10-31-2011, 05:33 AM
If you are to use a DP34 or a DPP44 switch, it is best to connect all 3 LNB ports to the switch as the switch will override the DPP LNB. Also, if you plan on using a Dish receiver to power the LNBs via the switch, the Dish receiver has to be connected to the power inserter which in turn is connected to the 1st output port of the switch. With the DPP44 switch you can use DPP separators with Dish receivers and/or the SV360Elite. With the DP34 switch the DPP separators become null, however that may not be an issue. Below is a more elaborate 5 sat set-up which I believe you can still find useful and give you the idea.(Please disregard the 2nd switch in each of those diagrams)

Grounding all your equipment is always good practice and highly recommended to avoid switching issues. The dish or dishes, cables(using 2.5GHz grounding blocks) and especially switches should be grounded using no less then a 10ga solid copper wire to an earth ground(rod).

http://www.satfix.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=11831&d=1320037766

astronut
02-06-2012, 04:43 AM
NO, you can't use two or more receivers to try and power this type of LNB (or the Dish 1000.2 LNB) as only one (1) receiver will power the LNB, this is due to blocking diodes on the LNB's other receiver output ports, (ports 2 and 3) with out these blocking diodes the other receivers power supply's would fight for dominance of the power circuit, only the one with the highest DC voltage and current output will win, the others will just sit there doing nothing except maybe having their power supplies damaged.

The DC power supply in the FTA receiver is not like a battery where you can put several together and get more juice out of it, (current) the power supplies in the FTA receiver have DC voltage regulators that can't be synchronized with the other receivers power supplies voltage outputs, a battery doesn't care it can do this as its a chemically derived voltage and will auto balance the voltage outputs with out damage, the AC to DC power supply has to have a voltage sensing input and output voltage synchronization circuits in them, the supply in the FTA receiver are too cheaply built to have these circuits in them.


This is why some use an old inactive Dish or BEV receiver or a DPP switch power inserter to run the 3 head LNB, the dish receiver and DPP power inserter have more DC current output then the normal FTA receiver.

Also any DC power supply with a 750 mA + 14 to +20 volts DC output will work as long as it has a power inserter for the coax, dont stick the DC supply directly on to the coax, this will FUBAR things.

Also most FTA receivers don't play well the DC power inserter's, you should run the power inserter on it's own seprate coax to port #1 on the LNB, ports #2 and #3 will run the receiver(s) just fine if done this way, you can also run a second external LNB when it's done this way as port #4 will supply the DC voltage and current for that LNB to do so.

I have a 722k with a dish 1000.4 EA already running. I just picked up an sv8000hd with 8psk. So can port#2 run my sv8000. Would I need a dpp44 switch or not? After looking at the diagram, I'm only interested in picking up 61.5, 72.7, and 77 and only have 1 receiver(sv) besides my 722k. I've been doing some reading as I'm new to this, but I'm not sure what the dpp44 switch does and if I really need it. I just know that fta receivers have problems powering the 1000.4 lnbs.