Ceramic Installation

[Bigpineguy Retired]

Tools of the Trade
Before beginning your project, you may wish to have some of these tools and
safety equipment ready.

Safety Equipment:

Dust Mask/Respirator
Safety Glasses
Rubber Gloves
Standard Tools: Tiling Tools:

Carpenter's Levels Tile Nippers
Chalk Line & Chalk Tile Cutter
Tape Measure Wet Saw (Optional)
Hammer Notch Trowels
Framing Square Margin Trowel
Rubber Mallet Grout Float
4 Ft. Straight Edge Wood Beating Block
Large Sponge
Stiff Blade Putty Knife
Foxtail Hand Broom
Extension Cords
Marking Pencil
Low Speed Drill with Paddle Mixer


Room Preparation

Before starting, clear the area to be tiled of all furniture and remove all moldings, fittings or fixtures that will be in the way.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/roomprep.jpg
Door moldings that impede the tile can be cut at the base with a hand saw. Place a section of corrugated cardboard on the tiling surface. This will compensate for mortar thickness. Lay a piece of tile on top of the cardboard. Cut bottom of door molding just above the tile as shown above. Tile will be able to slip under door frame correctly.
Surface Preparation

This is the most important step in attaining a quality tiling job. The surface to be tiled must be firm (doesn't flex when weight is applied), flat, level, and clean. For professional results, install tile only on the surfaces described in this brochure. If you find that your surface is a material other than one of those mentioned below, replace it with an approved surface.http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/surfaceprep.jpg


FLOORS
Wood Subfloors:
Check to see that your floor joists (studs) are no more than 16 inches on center.
Anything more than this will not provide a stiff surface to tile.

A double wood floor of 1-1/4 inch thickness (two 5/8 inch sheets of exterior
grade plywood) is the construction recommendation. These two layers should
be overlapped with offset joints. In some installations, subfloors may be stiffened
with a 1/2 inch cement backer board. This should be placed with 8d (1-1/2 inch
minimum) cement coated nails or screws every 6 inches around the perimeter, and
every 8 inches in all directions across the floor. Space sheets with 1/8 inch gaps a
nd offset sheets so joints do not coincide with plywood subfloor. Surface should
not dip or rise more than 1/8 inch over any 10 foot span. (see diagram below)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/subfloor.gif

Concrete Subfloors:
Concrete must be clean and free from waxes, sealers, curing compounds, etc. If anyof these are present, the tile will not adhere to the surface.

To test for these agents, place a few drops of water on the surface. If the water beads, one of the above contaminants is present and must be removed with a floor stripper.

Check the surface for flatness by laying a straight edge that is at least four feet long on the floor. The floor should not dip or rise more than 1/8 inch in a 10 foot span. Larger depressions can be leveled using a self leveling cement filler or latex fortified patching compound.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/level.jpg

Existing Ceramic Tile Floors:
Check to see that all existing tile is well bonded. Make sure that it is clean and free of
all loose materials and remove any soap or wax residue with a strong degreasing agent
(such as TSP). The new floor you lay down will only be as good as the surface on
which you tile. Never set tile over a loose or dirty surface.

Asphalt Tiles, Sheet Vinyl Or Linoleum Floors:
Existing floors of this nature can be used as a substrate as long as the tiles or sheets are
solidly adhered to the floor, and that there is proper firmness and flatness throughout.

If the floor is sound, firm and in good condition, strip floor of all sealers, waxes and dirt
with a floor stripper. Caution! Never sand or abrade vinyl asbestos tiles.

Expansion Joints:
Expansion joints must be left around the perimeter to allow for floor movement. Leave
a space of 1/4" between the wall and the subfloor/adhesive/tile. Areas larger than
24" x 24" require expansion joints within tiled area. This space is then sealed with a
flexible sealant.



WALLS
Standard framing is fine to support a tiled wall. The wall must be strong enough to hold
up with the additional weight of tile, adhesive and grout. Use plaster, gypsum board or
moisture resistant portland cement backer boards for most tiling jobs. Plywood and
Gypsum based products are not recommended for wet areas.

COUNTERTOPS

Plywood Underlayment:
Total thickness must be at least 3/4 inch and securely bonded. If a new or additional
surface is needed to increase the thickness to 3/4 inch, use approved underlayment grade
plywood or cement backer board. Fasten at 6 inch intervals along the edges and studs
with 1-1/2 inch galvanized roofing nails for cement backer boards or 1-1/4 inch (minimum)
underlayment nails or screws for plywood.

Check old or newly applied surface for loose areas and reinforce with appropriate fasteners.

[Bigpineguy Retired]

Planning Your Job

Make a Tiling Plan:
A paper drawing of the area to be tiled will help to determine the proper number of tiles
and other materials needed. You will need graph paper and a pencil.

Basic Rules for Planning:
1) Use as many full tiles as possible, try to minimize the number of cut tiles.

2) Cut tiles should be located away from the focal points of the eye, such as in an entryway
or at the front of a countertop.

3) Avoid small or narrow cuts. Do not cut a tile less than 1/2 its original size if at all possible.

Floor Layouts
Floors should be tiled from the center of the floor, outwards, so that any cut tiles will be at
the edges of the room.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/chalklin.gif

1. To find the center, measure each wall around the area to be tiled. Determine the center points of wall and mark those points on the floor. From one center point, snap a chalk line to the opposite point. Do the same for the other two points.
With a carpenter's square, check that the intersection is made in the center of the room at exactly 90 degrees. This will be the starting point.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/halftile.gif

2. Lay out single rows of tile along the two lines as shown in the diagram below. Space the tiles according to the desired grout line width, or use plastic tile spacers.

3. If there is a gap between the wall and the last tile that is less than 1/2 a tile, snap a new chalk line that is 1/2 a tile closer to either wall. This will compensate for an unwanted small cut.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/2x3.gif

4. From the center point of the room (or from the intersection of the new chalk line if you needed to snap one) lay out tile in an area of approximately 2'x 3' along the guidelines, remembering to space for grout lines.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/install.gif

Measure this area of tile, and use it to construct your layout grid.

[Bigpineguy Retired]

Adhesive Mortar

Always use adhesive or mortar that is suitable for the application. If at
all possible, mix mortar with an electric drill and paddle. This will
minimize any lumps in the mortar.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/photom.gif

Apply a layer of adhesive mortar (minimum of 1/8 inch thick) onto the clean surface with the flat side of the trowel working mortar into the surface.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/photon.gif

Then use the notched side of the trowel and install another layer of the adhesive mortar at a 45 degree - 60 degree angle to the surface. Spread only as much adhesive as can be tiled in 15 minutes. If skin develops, remove and retrowel with fresh adhesive.

Push tile in and twist slightly to ensure good contact. A beating block (a 2"x 4"x 14" length of wood) is helpful in leveling tiles.

Place block on the tiles and tap with hammer. A rubber mallet can also be used. Clean tiles with damp sponge or cloth as you work.
Grouting

A careful grouting job will give your installation the professional look
you want, so take your time on this step in particular.

Select a grout material that is suitable for the job. A good rule of thumb
is to use LATICRETE� Polymer Fortified Wall Grout in joints 1/8 inch
or less and LATICRETE� Polymer Fortified Floor Grout in joints 1/8 inch
or larger. Mix floor grout (sanded) and wall grout (unsanded) with water only,
following proper mixing instructions on grout container. Mix grout to a stiff,
yet workable consistency. Stainless epoxy grouts (LATAPOXY� SP-100)
are also available for high performance and stainproof requirements.

MIXING:

Pour proper amount of water into a clean mixing container.

Add some grout powder and mix until smooth. Add additional powder to make a stiff, yet workable, grout. Do not make grout soupy. For narrow joints use less powder to obtain a softer mix; for wide joints use more powder to obtain a stiffer mix.

APPLICATION:
Spread grout paste with a firm, sharp rubber float. Work the grout paste into
the joints until completely filled, making certain the paste is not just sitting on
top or "bridging the joint". Pack ALL joints firmly.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/photou.gif

PRIMARY CLEANING:

Remove all excess grout from the face of the tiles with the edge of the grout float. Work the float at a 45� angle, diagonally to the grout joints, to avoid pulling out the paste.


SECONDARY CLEANING:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/photov.gif
Remove the remaining grout with a damp towel or damp sponge (not wet). Work the strokes diagonally to the tile joints and allow to dry. Let grout set for at least 24 hours. Wet down the grout joints with clean cold water during this period.

[Bigpineguy Retired]

FINAL CLEANING:

If a haze appears on the surface of the tiles after grout is dry, buff off with clean dry cloth.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o155/bigpineguy/photow.gif

OPENING AREA TO TRAFFIC:

For light traffic flow areas, allow grout to set for approximately 12 hours.
For heavier traffic, let set for 24 hours.