Why red lines and no or bad signal?

[john4848]

Just asking for input from the wise people here. Setup was working until yesterday afternoon.

My situation as of today:


Using Dreamlink T5. 3 dishes. Dish 1 pointed at 82&91 feeds into sw21 switch and the on into Cheeta switch port 1. Dish 2 pointed at 110/118&119. Dish 3 (33 inch) pointed at 129. All fed into cheetah switch. Single cable goes into one receiver (dreamlink t5).

Starting this morning, Lost blue line in my dish settings. I can see red lines at upper 90's but no blue lines. Getting bad or no signal on ALL Sats.

I have replaced switch and factory reset. Tried to scan for sats and I get nothing. Still get red lines in upper 90's on all sats but still no blue lines.

What is happening? Is it my receiver, module, Lnbs.....

I'm stumped. Hope you guys can help.


THANK YOU!

[Terryl]

How long was this setup working before it went FUBAR???

And what type/brand of LNB's?

[john4848]

How long was this setup working before it went FUBAR???

And what type/brand of LNB's?

It has been working for years, up to yesterday. Dish network and bev original LNB'S.

I have an old SV Elite (no remote) lying around.Just now, I Fed the sw21 switch (82&91) into the sonicview elite and the signal came in. Did the same with Dreamlink and nothing.

[Terryl]

It could be your switch, the dish DP type LNB's only work good with several types of switches, (they must be DP rated) this due to the higher frequency the LNB's work at.

Are the Bev LNB's the old legacy type that need the +13 and +18 volt switching or all LNB's are the same type? DP or DPP single, dual or Dish 1000?

A 5 LNB setup is hard to trouble shoot, try each LNB by it's self bypassing the switch and going directly to the receiver.......

And be absolutely sure to totally power down the receiver before disconnecting any LNB or switch you can do some internal damage to the switch or receiver.

[john4848]

I fed one lnb (129) using a new cable directly into the receiver. 97 % quality and signal RED WHY?

[Terryl]

That may be an internal software problem or a problem with your provider, I can't help you with that.

If you have good "S" and "Q" on all birds then the LNB's and dish are correctly aligned.

Low "S" equals a bad connection, bad switch or the coax is too long.

Low "Q" equals a problem with the signal that is being decoded by the receiver, the LNB out of alignment or the dish has a problem with the direction to the satellite under test.

No picture/sound or red lines or bars on a channel but good "S" and "Q" could mean a problem with the software or the server providing the IKS.

[john4848]

That may be an internal software problem or a problem with your provider, I can't help you with that.

If you have good "S" and "Q" on all birds then the LNB's and dish are correctly aligned.

Low "S" equals a bad connection, bad switch or the coax is too long.

Low "Q" equals a problem with the signal that is being decoded by the receiver, the LNB out of alignment or the dish has a problem with the direction to the satellite under test.

No picture/sound or red lines or bars on a channel but good "S" and "Q" could mean a problem with the software or the server providing the IKS.

Thanks for the help.

Provider problem would normally result in scramble channel error message.

My S & Q are constant at 97% but also constantly red.

I have reset the receiver several times and setup Sats anew with same results.

Definitely not a dish pointing as that is optimal, the bev dish was done by them.

I'm stumped.

[john4848]

Really would appreciate any help here. Why would I get 97 % signal and quality in RED even though there is not sat feed going into the receiver?

That is the question that I am struggling with: 97% S&Q in red, with or without signal.

[surfinisfun]

Really would appreciate any help here. Why would I get 97 % signal and quality in RED even though there is not sat feed going into the receiver?

That is the question that I am struggling with: 97% S&Q in red, with or without signal.

That is just the default signal you will get with this unit when its not receiving signal....for any reason.

Have you checked the HD module?

[nobodyspecial]

could be module as stated ,could be power adapter too

[john4848]

That is just the default signal you will get with this unit when its not receiving signal....for any reason.

Have you checked the HD module?

I had a dead HD module sitting around which I used to switch with the module the receiver had and I get the same result, 97 % red. With out a module at all, Signal is non existent 1-20 % quality is zero.

[john4848]

,could be power adapter too

You mean the receiver's power adapter?

[KIDWCKED]

after resets did you try loading latest file?

[Terryl]

OK, you may have a DC voltage problem at the receiver, if the S&Q are showing up with anything over 50% then the LNB's should be working, the red indicates that the signals are not being decoded correctly.

You said that the signal went to 1 -20 and Q to zero without the module, did you set the internal menu to reflect this?

Without the HD module you should still get a good S&Q on a SD transponder, TP 12516 on 129W is still in SD, if you do not get a good S&Q reading on that TP then there is something wrong with the internals on that receiver.

And since you get RED on all satellites it very well could be the internal DC power supply that feeds the LNB's, this needs to be tested with a DVM, and cheap one will do.

All you need to do is find a small paper clip and insert it into the back of the receiver's (with the power off) LNB input port and turn it on, you should see ether +13 volts DC or +18 volts DC depending on what polarity transponder you were looking at.

If the readings are 1/2 volt below the voltages I posted then the receiver has a internal power problem, you also need to test for excessive AC voltage on that port, switch the meter to AC and look at that port again, there should be very little if none at all AC voltage on the LNB input, if over 1/4 to 1/2 of a volt AC then the receiver does have an internal power supply problem, it may or may-not be fixable.

As you stated in your post above you tried another receiver and you got a signal, so it looks to be a problem with the Dreamlink.

[nobodyspecial]

You mean the receiver's power adapter?

yes ,I have seen a few users having this issue regarding a defective power supply

[john4848]

yes ,I have seen a few users having this issue regarding a defective power supply

Thank you all for your help. This where I am at right now.

I removed Module that I have been using and put in an older "defective one" and replaced the power supply and Eureka! I was able to see the heavenly blue lines again. Scanned a couple of sats and pulled in channels normally. So I think it was a question of 1. Power supply "new to me". 2. Defective module.

I attached a picture of power adapters, Dlink T5 and alternate. Please advise me if I can use the alternate safely. I am clueless on things electrical.

Found it strange to still have IKS server info and credentials still working after many 25746factory reset.

[c8rbk1ng]

To isolate the problem even further put the module back in and if it works then it is the power supply and vice versa with the power supply vs the module. If nothing works by doing this then you know it was both.

[john4848]

To isolate the problem even further put the module back in and if it works then it is the power supply and vice versa with the power supply vs the module. If nothing works by doing this then you know it was both.

I did just that and the receiver started to act funny. The front panel light showed the number 8888 and the numbers were pulsating!
Did not go any further. Removed the module and replaced with the other one and all is fine.

[c8rbk1ng]

Well, now you know it was the module :)

[Terryl]

The new power supply your trying to use is a bit short on the DC current, the old one is rated at 2.5 amps. the new one is rated at 2 amps, it may get too hot if you try and use it for too long.

A power module of the same rating in amperes or larger should be used.

[john4848]

The new power supply your trying to use is a bit short on the DC current, the old one is rated at 2.5 amps. the new one is rated at 2 amps, it may get too hot if you try and use it for too long.

A power module of the same rating in amperes or larger should be used.

Is this one better? Appreciate your help.

25748

[italian1]

Is this one better? Appreciate your help.

25748

you eed 1 that has 2500 m/a's or 2.5 a, the 1 posted I pic is oly 1.2 a

[c8rbk1ng]

you eed 1 that has 2500 m/a's or 2.5 a, the 1 posted I pic is oly 1.2 a

You're confusing input and output. The pic posted last is 4a.

[john4848]

You're confusing input and output. The pic posted last is 4a.

Now I'm confused! Are you saying I can go ahead and use it. Can someone please help so I can put this issue to bed already.

Thank you.

[c8rbk1ng]

Why aren't you using the original power supply if your problem was the HD module?

[jeldf]

The new power supply your trying to use is a bit short on the DC current, the old one is rated at 2.5 amps. the new one is rated at 2 amps, it may get too hot if you try and use it for too long.

A power module of the same rating in amperes or larger should be used.

Listen to Terryl. Same or higher amp output.