DiSEq issues or?

[TurboPirate]

Hello gang, having issues with a JX Lite, I have changed LNBs, DiSEq, SW21 I tried DiSEq V1.0, 1.1, 2.0 all the same, also changed the JB200 module with 2 more and 1 JB200+ the 650 mili amps and get the same problem, NO SIGNAL only 1 SAT has signal, first I tried what I found connected and owner said it was like that for more than a year
119 Port 1
110 Port 2
58 Port 3
Only 58 has signal, I installed 1 new CalAmp LNB on 119 and left the 110 disconnected, turned the JX ON (side killer switch) checked the settings all the same, only 58 had signal, changed the DiSEq switch V1.0 for another brand new, checked again same problem, change the 58 to Port 1 and 119 to Port 3 checked and I thought I was going to have signal of the 119 in Port 3 but no, none had signal, owner went and got brand new CalAmp LNB and brand new linear LNB Digiwave Standard, connected all and no signal, changed the JB200 same thing, changed the Ports with 119 on all 4 ports and on all it has signal as long there is no other LNB connected to the switch, tried the same with 110 and with 58, I can change the Port settings from 1 to 4 and where the single LNB is connected will give me signal once I connect another LNB it all go to No Signal, tried with SW21, DP33 and DP34 all the same, tried with JB200+ 650 miliamps, no difference at all, the only thing I didn't tried was the JynxBox external power supply for another, maybe the problem is there or...........? What you guys think? TP
Another question, how many volts is the fan this JynxBox Ultra Lite have?

[Anubis]

Are all these different lnb's standard 11250's or are they powered? Are you using a standard 4 in 1 out switch? Sounds to me like something is sucking too much power. Why is there a sw21 switch in the mix? Only need a standard 4 in 1 out switch. Tp's need updating as well if they aren't.

[hutch]

Have the TP's been updated for 110/119? If a factory reset was performed the TPs will need to be re-updated as this info doesnt stay put... If its like the new Jynx now it runs 12 volts to the switch... not sure ...the Fan maybe the same... sorry to not be more precise ...the lite I had didn't work so I returned it & got a V3

[TurboPirate]

Yep I did Blind Scan with Network Search ON STB connected directly to LNB, all the Circular LNBs were Eagle Aspen the old ones and CalAmp the new ones, all 11250 frequency, the Linear was an old DMS International dual and the new one is Digiwave Standard Linear Dual it looks exactly like the Eagle Aspen but its linear 10750 frequency, the SW21 was there because I tried 119 and 110 connected to the SW21 leaving the 58w out of the equation but it only gives me signal if only 1 LNB is connected, another thing I just notice today was the FAN, it was stuck I tried to lube it but no go, disconnected the fan until I can install a new one, I am using a desk fan 4 inches next to the JynxBox without the cover so it can receive air circulation.............
Hutch you are right this Ultra Lite doesn't convince me at all, I have the V3 with AZlink name on it and it doesn't have a fan it runs 2 modules the JB200 and a DVB S2 with no heating problems at all.

Anubis, I was thinking the same, something sucking more power than usual that is why was wondering trying another JynxBox power supply since is an externally powered I can try another with same AMPs or .5 AMPs more, what do you think?

[Anubis]

You can try upping the power supply but I would find the source of the power drain. I have ran 5 standard 11250 lnb's for 129, 119, 110, 91, 82 off 2 dishes with that power supply and no fan with the cover off outside in the summer without issues. Something tells me one or more of the lnb's has a different current draw however power supply could be faulty as well. If you swap out the power supply and still have the same issue then seriously look at the mix of lnb's carefully. Have you tried running one lnb only and if works disconnecting it and setting aside as working and then trying another one and if it works set it with the first and so on testing each one by them one by one? If you find they all work on their own then take the first one tested and add one of the others and if the two work together unplug the second one keeping the first one hooked up and try another one so there are two connected and if they both work set that one aside until you have tried each. Keep doing this until you find which lnb knocks out your signal then try the other output on it to see if the signal is knocked out. If it is meter both outputs to check for abnormalities in frequency.

[Terryl]

OK Turbo try this, disconnect all but the working LNB, then tune to a working channel on the receiver, then power it down and disconnect the working LNB, power up the receiver, then check the DC voltage at the coax for the working LNB, depending on the transponder you were looking at the DC voltage should be 13.5 to 14.5 or 17.5 to 18.5 volts DC at the center conductor. if lower then 13.5 or 17.5 then you have an excessive DC current drain somewhere and you need to eliminate that.

You can check the other LNB's for the same problem, but that's a lot of running up and down unless you have someone to help out with the receiver.

A standard LNB will need at least 13.5 volts DC to run right, and it should switch transponders with the 13/18 volts switching from the receiver, some LNB's if they don't get the correct DC voltage and current needed to run will not even turn on.

The Digiwave LNB will run OK down to 10.5 volts DC, and the CalAmps will run at 11.5 volts DC.

I could not find a current spec for the Digiwave but the CalAmps take about 200 mA, but with a standard 1x4 Diseqc switch inline only one LNB will be on at a time, so what to do, looks like a lot of roof time.

[TurboPirate]

Lol yes a lot of up and down but I did the up and down the day I went to the house I did up and down for every DiSEq switch I tried for every LNB replaced and for every Port changing just to eliminate all possibilities but I surely didn't think of getting my voltmeter out and check for Volts kind of obvious but didn't cross my mind lol (pulling my hair that should of being the first thing to do before trying all those switches) Oh well there is always a single rabbit that gets away of the hunter and Noooooo I am not taking about Bugs Bunny. TP
Thanks again to you all.
Terryl the Digiwave model number is DGL990D Standard L.O Freq 1075 Noise db 0.6

[hutch]

c/p the set up guide...

HD puts a whole new dimension into the dish/LNB setup. Why? Because you now need at least 3 satellites to get your all
HD channels. Most folks use a 1000.2 TurboHD dish. This severely aggravates the power problem. D Pro Plus LNBs in this
dish plus the built-in switch are a very large power load taking anywhere from 720ma to 760ma to run them. Why is this a
problem? The provider boxes have no problem. Sure. They are capable of providing 1000ma to supply the dish with no
problems at all. The Jynxbox however is only capable of providing 450ma. If you hook it up and don’t burn it out right
away, it will way overheat and make you crazy until it does burn out. So how to solve the problem, what do you do?
You add a power inserter to your dish setup.
A power inserter is cheap, only $17 - $30. If you have no provider box to carry the load then this is your alternative.

If you have no external switch such as DPP44 or DP34 then you connect an RG-6 cable from the power insert port labeled
‘to switch port 1’ directly to your LNB port 1. Plug in the black power supply and you are good to go. The Jynxbox will not
operate through a power inserter so it will have to be connected to ports 2 or 3. A provider box will work just fine through
the power inserter. Some FTAs will also work through the power inserter but not Jynxbox.
If you have either DPP44 or DP34, then this inserter cable goes from the inserter port labeled ‘to switch port 1’ directly to
the ‘Receiver 1’ port on your switch. This is an easy solution and only loads the Jynxbox about 40ma to run just its own
section of the switch.

[TurboPirate]

You are right Hutch, this STB was working with that setup I mention before for more than a year, today I went to the client's house and tried my AZlink V3 same as JX but clone obviously, did the Dish Settings and all works great, SAT 119 Port 1 SAT 110 Port 2 and 58 on Port 3 on a DiSEq V 2.0 and tried the V1.0 all works great, checked after 5 Minutes for High Temps and all was cool, so I guess the problem is either the Ultra Lite or the Power Supply but I'll tried that tomorrow, also right when you said the JynxBox only have 450 mili amps but the Model with the + icon are 650 mili amps and I have 2 JB200+ tuner, at first both look the same but when you look at it with detail you'll notice 3 big differences between the 450 mili amps tuner and the 650 mili ampsin forum there should be a Post I started about this tuners with photos, thanks in advanced..
Anubis when I said the JynxBox cover OFF with a personal desk 4 inches Fan to keep cool the Ultra Lite was because I found the Factory Fan stuck like it was welded, Obviously long ago the FAN needed lube and didn't get it ran until it died, this Ultra Lite had the Factory FAN tapped to the processor with double side tape where other Ultra Lite had the FAN bolted to the Top Cover of the STB also this FAN is a bit bigger than the one bolted to the Top cover. TP

[TurboPirate]

Hello guys, I have this STB home and connected it to my setup and I get the same problem, the only thing that allowed the STB to work with 2 LNBs was a 22Khz switch
119
11250
Diseq 1.0 disable
Diseq 1.1 disable
22Khz OFF
110
11250
diseq 1.0 disable
Diseq 1.1 disable
22Khz OFF
So far so good, if I remove the 22KHz switch and install a brand new 2×1 diseq or brand new 4×1 diseq I get signal on 1 LNB the other goes NO SIGNAL, I have to redo the voltage readings Terry told me to do I can't find the paper I wrote them down, I also tried another power supply 12 volts 4 amps, install new fan. Thanks TP