V22 wifi troubles clone or not

[heavyweight1979]

Just bought jynxbox v22 ultra hd on ebay.ca from Ontario seller, and I think it is a clone but not sure. Out of the box wifi timing out every time and some other signs of clone but remote has made in china on back and was in ziplock. I'm worried which file to use to try to improve wifi because if wifi stays buggy clone or not will definitely return. I kread that clones need clone safe file v2.39 but if not a clone will the v2.39 hurt the non clone box? Thanks in advance...

[nobodyspecial]

All jynboxes past v3 are clones

[Putski]

Your box is Preloaded with the newest fix for this box and Is a Clone...

[Anubis]

Are you using the WiFi adapter that came with the box? Try a different one. The box location could also be an issue and if you really want to dig deep it is possible that your WiFi signal is unstable. You normally would not see it as unstable depending on the strength of the actual antenna. Weeker ones tend to act flaky when that is the case.

[heavyweight1979]

Yes wifi antenna that came with box (signal is always between 75% to 99% never less or not available have to refresh). Got signal then goes away sometimes while scanning but also see neighbors signal. Was able to connect once wifi, then never again with DHCP activated because not to familiar with static setup. When I connect it times out after 10 seconds. Also noticed when hard reboot channels erase. Have to rescan. And yes it is a clone. Just got confirmation from ebay seller. I saw a 2.44 file on other site (supposedly clone safe section) which claims more stable and faster wifi connect (posted by user Mexicanito or something). Not sure next step. Connected box with Ethernet cable and bridge (everything working, ch. also) but really trying to use wifi that came with receiver. What do you mean try different adapter? (The antenna that plugs in usb in the back or changing the whole usb female end inside box, by soldering and stuff). Thanks.

[041joy]

try using the usb port in the front(open door on right side to see)

[heavyweight1979]

Just plugged in usb port in the front and wow connected right away screen popped up within seconds. Could be signal interference towards back end of receiver or buggy cheap hardware back there. Now 2 minutes later screen froze. Wifi says connected this time where last time it would say not connected. Server is also connected so the box says. Screen just came back few minutes after. Screen had almost no freezes with Ethernet cable and xfta wireless bridge which is used for pc as well, right beside sat equipment. I disconnected to see if that was interfering . Tried that before when antenna was in back of receiver and didn't work. Now it seems to be working. Now using wifi straight from hp pc right beside wifi on receiver (front usb port, have not retried back again) and they seem to be co-existing together. 5 minutes in and no freezes and 10 minutes a one second freeze. Will keep posting if things go sour...Thanks everybody for the help...

[jets]

What router are you running? Do you have any other WiFi devices that connect to that router? Are you in an apartment block or other place with lots of WiFi?

[heavyweight1979]

In a house, dlink dual band router kind of new...and tons of wifi toys connected but not all at same time usually. Everything still good so far with occasional hiccups. Have not checked ppv. Are they up on rockets?

[Terryl]

WIFI signals can be interfered with by the RF signals coming down the coax connection to the LNB input at the receiver, if the coax used is very cheap or the coax is not propperly grounded then the signals can leak out, these signals are sometimes very close to or a harmonic of the WIFI frequency's used on most routers.

Normal WIFI signals are at around 2.5 GHZ, one half of this frequency is 1.250 GHz, this is right in the middle of the RF band of signals coming down from the LNB, a second harmonic of these signals can wipe out most WIFI router signals at the box.

To see if this is the case you can change the output frequency used by the router, you have to be able to go into the routers setup menus to do this, 90% of the routers out there come preset to channel 6, try another channel and see what happens.

If you do not want to use the front USB port then try some good high quality RG-6 quad coax out to the LNB (or switch) or take a look at how the coax is grounded, if it's not grounded the do so, this may fix the problems.

[Anubis]

You can use an app like wifi inspector or wifiinfoview on a laptop to tell you who around you is on what channel for their WiFi then you can pick one that is less crowded and has the weeker signals close to you. Just remember that 1,6 and 11 are usually the better of the channels in NA.

[Terryl]

With almost every cordless device running in the 2.5 GHz or 5.6 to 6 GHz band there are lots of other things that could be causing interference, If there is a cordless phone base close by then unplug it for a bit or if you can move it further away.

Some of the new HDTV remote controls can be a combination IR/wireless, even cell phones can interfere, the best test is to try turning off all things cordless late at night (less possibility of outside interference) and see what happens.

But I would check the coax to see if it's grounded correctly first.

[heavyweight1979]

thanks again

[Terryl]

OK, I would make a ground right before the coax enters the house, if there is a real ground (Earth or grass plot) then that would be the best start, if there is a metal cold water pipe or spigot then you can use that, or the last choice would be the house eletrical service ground, but the coax needs to be cut at the entrance (or close to it) to the house and connectors put on then the ground block needs to go there.

The next step is connect a #12 gauge copper wire (with a green PVC jacket) to the ground block and run it to the ground point, remember the shorter the ground wire the better this works, if it over 25 feet then you may need a #10 gauge copper wire.

If you use a true Earth ground then use a UL approved ground rod, this may be 6 to 8 feet long, (make sure you can drive this rod this deep)(all but the last 6 inches) and you must use the approved ground connection to connect the wire to it.

The same for if all you have is a metal cold water pipe or spigot.

Now some will say that you MUST connect to the house electrical ground, this is true if you need a permit and your going to get an electrical inspection, the true Earth ground is far better for an RF receiving system, and you will pick up far less electrical noise.

If your only choice is to use the house electrical service ground then don't disconnect it, use a split bolt (ask at any large hardware store for this) and connect your ground to this, if the only way to connect to this ground is at the inside of the electrical panel you should get an electrician to do this.

Be safe and we will be awaiting the results.

Also there are many different manufactures of coaxes out there, some are very cheap, I use Beldin RG-6 quad rated to 3 GHz when I can get it.

[heavyweight1979]

dp34 from ebay. I have 2 dp34's and both with same no signal that's why using sw21 switch, but I noticed dp34's have a kind of ground screw on side. I have many splitter switch's that don't work maybe because of this grounding thing or just bad luck burned out dead switch's but there are so many switch's not reading a signal except for this one sw21 which I'm using. And these signal problems were way before they did all the tp changes and 8psk module changes back when viewsat and sonicview were the leaders...Oh, just went and checked and sw21 switch also has an unused ground screw on side. Thanks for all the info and more...