Very stubborn lug nut!!!

[c8rbk1ng]

I'm replacing brake pads...have 4 of the 5 lugs off and then came to the one that won't budge no matter what I do.
Impact socket just strips it down. I've WD40 it, torched it and chisled it and managed to get half of the lug off but the bottom half is driving me crazy. My metal saw is useless because the lug is recessed in the rim. I thought about cutting the stud but I can't get at that either. I've looked for locklug/striped lug remover (like easy outs) but I can't find any small enough and really don't want to try and drill the stud if I don't have to (I don't have metal drill bits small enough). I've been at this since 10:30 this morning and finally had to stop due to severe weather rolling in and arms that feel like cooked noodles right now :). I'm open to any and all suggestions if you guys have any. Thanks

[bgd2]

You could try this might work. Tighten other bolts back on spray stubborn one with liquid wrench or wd 40 wait for a few minutes then try again to remove stubborn lugnut. Good luck

[hutch]

You could try this might work. Tighten other bolts back on spray stubborn one with liquid wrench or wd 40 wait for a few minutes then try again to remove stubborn lugnut. Good luck

I'd try the above method first... At the risk of stripping the stud you could try to strip whats left of the lug by tightening it til one or the other strips... last resort tactic... good luck... I hope bgd2's method works...

[burnsy]

The best way to do it is back the nut off as far as you can then place a long chissel on the nut and hammer the chissel until the stud breaks off I assume the stud then can be punched through and replaced

[steveOtoo]

Possibly use a small high grade titanium drill bit

[c8rbk1ng]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've tried the wd 40 already. Can't get a socket on the nut to tighten or loosen...the lug and stud are recessed in the rim so you can't get at it to saw. I've been hammering and chisling all day, that's why my arms feel like cooked noodles :) Looks like I'll have to get some metal piercing drill bits and go that route. Ugh...tomorrow's another day.

[burnsy]

I have done this one a few times works well try pounding on a slightly smaller 12 point socket and over tighten it it should snap the stud the socket will be finished because you will not get the nut back out lol

[bigbadbrother]

Brake the stud off then pull the hub and replace the the stud. It will be faster and easier in the long run.

[Terryl]

You need one of these puppy's, it will split the nut, then you can take it off, if it does not move then crack the other side.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396173_200396173

[c8rbk1ng]

Brake the stud off then pull the hub and replace the the stud. It will be faster and easier in the long run.


You need one of these puppy's, it will split the nut, then you can take it off, if it does not move then crack the other side.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396173_200396173

Thanks for the suggestions but the nut and stud are recessed in the rim. There is no way to break the stud or get a nut splitter on there. I would need an L shaped nut splitter and I don't think they make one like that. :)If it was level to the rim I could cut it off with my metal saw but it sits inside of about a 2 1/2 to 3 inch recess. You need a deep set socket or an extension bar to get in there in the first place.

[runamok]

Can you remove the bearing/nut and remove hub then take a grinder with a metal cutting desk to the back side on hub on lug nut.

[bigbadbrother]

Can you remove the bearing/nut and remove hub then take a grinder with a metal cutting desk to the back side on hub on lug nut.

Good ideal. I've had to do that.

[runamok]

If you can just cut enough of stud off then take center punch and if enough meat is off the stud it should bust out with no damage to hub.

[jeldf]

I used a small grinding wheel to cut into the nut (recessed) and then a hammer and punch.........the ex tossed the lock nut socket.
Did this on all four wheels.
Remember, when you do get it off, anti-seize is your friend!

[lobsterpot]

I have done this one a few times works well try pounding on a slightly smaller 12 point socket and over tighten it it should snap the stud the socket will be finished because you will not get the nut back out lol

This works , but I would use a 6 point socket. Get a metric set and a small mall and hammer that socket on there. I use to work in garage , and that is what we did. Or if all else fails ,use a cutting torch.

[1boxman]

I'm replacing brake pads...have 4 of the 5 lugs off and then came to the one that won't budge no matter what I do.
Impact socket just strips it down. I've WD40 it, torched it and chisled it and managed to get half of the lug off but the bottom half is driving me crazy. My metal saw is useless because the lug is recessed in the rim. I thought about cutting the stud but I can't get at that either. I've looked for locklug/striped lug remover (like easy outs) but I can't find any small enough and really don't want to try and drill the stud if I don't have to (I don't have metal drill bits small enough). I've been at this since 10:30 this morning and finally had to stop due to severe weather rolling in and arms that feel like cooked noodles right now :). I'm open to any and all suggestions if you guys have any. Thanks

What is the year, model and make ?

[bigbadbrother]

Snap-on tools had a socket for getting this type of lug nut. there not cheap but you might call the local snap-on or cornwell dealer.

[c8rbk1ng]

What is the year, model and make ?

It's a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear wheel with tire still on the rim. Most of the above suggestions can't work because I can't get at the parts mentioned. I bought HS titanium drill bits and 2 lock nut/stripped nut removers today and am going to try and attack this again tomorrow.

[c8rbk1ng]

Based on his description of his situation, I would say the nut/stud are now galled.Quit playin' with it and break the bastard!
The Noof could have that off in 5 minutes or less.

To bad you're not my neighbor :) I'll let you do it! How do you advise to break it when the space in the recess around the stud and nut is about a screwdriver tip wide? Just wide enough to get a tire iron or a socket on there. Pm me where your shop is and maybe I'll show up :)

[bigbadbrother]

Does any of the lug nut stick beyond the wheel? If so you might be able to grind a slot in it. that will take pressure off the stud. What kind of lug is this, a lock nut or stock?

[1boxman]

It's a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear wheel with tire still on the rim. Most of the above suggestions can't work because I can't get at the parts mentioned. I bought HS titanium drill bits and 2 lock nut/stripped nut removers today and am going to try and attack this again tomorrow.

Ah jeep... :tape: J/K .. even wrangler do the same... torch is about the only thing that works... That type of alloy rim will will scorch but if done right will survive. At this point you have know choice. No magic wand or spell will get you out of this. At the worse ..you will need a rim. Suck but... anything with boobs or engine you have troubles..lol You will have to remove drum ...or disc ..studs punch threw ..than use a new nut and washer to pull new stud into place .

[c8rbk1ng]

Does any of the lug nut stick beyond the wheel? If so you might be able to grind a slot in it. that will take pressure off the stud. What kind of lug is this, a lock nut or stock?

No...does not stick out beyond the wheel. It's a stock nut covered with those useless aluminum covers.

[c8rbk1ng]

Ah jeep... :tape: J/K .. even wrangler do the same... torch is about the only thing that works... That type of alloy rim will will scorch but if done right will survive. At this point you have know choice. No magic wand or spell will get you out of this. At the worse ..you will need a rim. Suck but... anything with boobs or engine you have troubles..lol You will have to remove drum ...or disc ..studs punch threw ..than use a new nut and washer to pull new stud into place .

Already torched it. I've been repairing my own cars and trucks for over 45 years. I even had to Mickey Mouse a universal joint on a refrigerated box truck with a coat hanger so I could get home from the middle of nowhere. To this day I still don't know how it held together but it got me home. I couldn't (or wouldn't) go over 40 mph...but it got me home :) That being said, there's nothing mentioned here that I haven't thought of. Nothing has worked so far but I have a couple of cobalt drill bits coming and will try that when they get here. Everything I've seen or heard says a 7/16 cobalt bit will do the job. I'm hoping they are right. Hopefully I'll update this thread with news of success. Thanks for all your replies!

[runamok]

You said you tried everything does that mean you rtried to remove the spindle bearing/nut and pull tire and hub off?

[burnsy]

Gezzz this sounds like the lug from hell I never met one I could not over tighten and bust off lol

[runamok]

On the Rear wheel of a Jeep?

So it has a axle going into the differential?

[runamok]

That being said:how would you get the wheel/rotor assembly off with the calliper on?How do you get the calliper off of the mount with the wheel still in place???

Bummer wished I could have been more help.

[dukeathome]

If it's drum brake,pull the axle,if it's disc you won't pull the axle

[bigbadbrother]

OK. I've see the problem and I know what to do to fix it. Pull the lug cover, It will come off with a screw driver and a small pry hook. you need a 19mm six point socket (use a good one)and good breaker bar with a five foot or so pipe that will slide over the breaker bar. now comes the fun part. put the socket and breaker bar pipe combo on the lug with the end about 2 1/2 feet off the ground then have someone sit in the jeep with their foot on the brakes the jump and I mean really jump and the stub will brake or the lug will start to turn if that's case move the bar and do it again. Just so you know I've done this before. good luck and keep us up to date.

[bigbadbrother]

There is one other way to do the way I just posted. use all the tools I said but put the bar end so that it's almost on the ground and then have someone drive the jeep very,very slow in what ever way the threads go to remove the lug. Be really careful if you do it like this.

[c8rbk1ng]

I tell you guys, I appreciate all the suggestions but some of them are making me laugh hysterically :yes: and sound like the makings of a good America's Funniest Videos farce. There is only about 1/4" of nut left and I've already popped the useless cover off (and it is attached to the nut...all one piece) of it when I tried the hammer and chisel routine so the jumping up and down routine (I can just picture bigbadbrother doing this :)) won't work as nothing will stay on the nut unless you're holding it in place. Drilling the stud seems like my best bet at this point, hopefully the bits get here quick.

[steveOtoo]

Auto advice is male DNA......................

[chicot60]

What have you got to lose.....:D

http://i.imgur.com/o7cQwUY.jpg

[Mr Hanky]

An air chisel should get at the nut and split what little of the nut you have left, once cracked it will spin off.Air chisels guns are 25.00 and come with different size chisels and of coarse when that nuts off you have the gun for the rest of the jeeps nuts.lmao this is nuts!

[saggy]

find a cutting torch save the aggrevation or put the rest of the nuts on take it to closet shop and get them to blow it off should be no more then twenty might not even charge you because some shops...

[1boxman]

Already torched it. I've been repairing my own cars and trucks for over 45 years. I even had to Mickey Mouse a universal joint on a refrigerated box truck with a coat hanger so I could get home from the middle of nowhere. To this day I still don't know how it held together but it got me home. I couldn't (or wouldn't) go over 40 mph...but it got me home :) That being said, there's nothing mentioned here that I haven't thought of. Nothing has worked so far but I have a couple of cobalt drill bits coming and will try that when they get here. Everything I've seen or heard says a 7/16 cobalt bit will do the job. I'm hoping they are right. Hopefully I'll update this thread with news of success. Thanks for all your replies!
R u sure you are using the torch right ...lol
Than c4 ...or sent to the reserve ..lol Good luck . Good thing it was not a YJ ..cause I would ask why..ja buy it :tape:

[c8rbk1ng]

Brother....Tune-Rite Auto Service in Oakville Ontario Canada.If you are within striking distance,come by my shop & I will do it for free.

146 miles one way...2 hours and 29 minutes (216 if there's no traffic :) according to Google maps. 292 and 5 hours round trip. I appreciate the offer but I don't want to spend my vacation looking for you with grinding brakes :)

[ranger]

I have not read all the other ways that have been given but here is what I would do .... simply use a power handle with a good socket and use a extension handle (pipe) long enough to wring the lug nut into and then simply replace the lug nut stud .... It is easy to just replace the stud ....

[c8rbk1ng]

I have not read all the other ways that have been given

Probably should have :)

[Benney]

How much damage have you done to that rim?

[c8rbk1ng]

How much damage have you done to that rim?

No damage...yet! ;) :)

[c8rbk1ng]

Just thought I'd update the situation. The driil bits arrived Friday (I bought them on ebay for 1/4 of the cost of bits in local stores) so yesterday I went out to try again. Using a combination of cobalt and then titanium bits I was finally able to drill the stud and lugnut down past the wheel hole and kick the tire free! :yeaah: Put the new stud in place, changed the pads and now all is well and the lugnut from hell has been defeated :thumbsup: and melted down to be used for fishing sinkers :). Thanks to all who replied for your suggestions.

[capthook]

What size bits did you use? I have the same problem.

[c8rbk1ng]

What size bits did you use? I have the same problem.

Start small drilling in the center of the stud and keep going up one size making the hole a little bigger each time, the last 2 for me were 11/32 and 7/16 (or 1/2 depending on the size of the stud) until you get past the rim.

[capthook]

thank you I'll get some bits.

[c8rbk1ng]

You might need to kick the tire off from the back side from under the vehicle so it would be wise if someone else was there with you :)