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zatopit
06-18-2015, 04:16 PM
HI,

Don't mean to hi-jack tread and also notice this is under T-5 and not under DISHES...

Can't help but mention a few more things on this topic cause I'm certain these issues will come up with someone else trying to set up this way with the above mentioned... SO, my 2-Cents and in interrogative form...

1) POWERING -UP THOSE BIG_AZZ LNB'S ON 500+ DISH --- Can the Power Inserter from a DPP-44 actually be used with a DP-34 switch that #1 above stated was being used or does the Power Inserter need to be used with ONLY a DPP-44 ???

2) If a regular standard (4-IN - 4-OUT) ground-block were being used ( and NOT any DP-34 or DPP-44) along with the adding of the Power Inserter in OCS-DP setting for those big-azz lnb's ... THEN, QUESTION, What would be the suggested arrangement of positions for the rg-6 going into the ground-block (or even a 34 or 44 switch for that matter) ??? Would it be to put the Power-Inserter INTO #1 and THEN use the OUT #1 as 119, the OUT #2 as 110 and the OUT #3 as 129 ???

3) ALSO, if the "combo" 118.7 / 119 LNB were being used then would THAT change the OUTS to being 119 on #1 ( with 119 being used opposite or "along with" the Power Inserter in #1 ), 110 on #2, 129 on #3 and finally 118 on #4 ???

4) FINALLY, hope you all are not confused by all that I typed here by now ;-))) Feedback would "really" be appreciated...

STILL have a few more more questions about THIS set-up... A dish-500+ with DPP-"BIG" LNB's, using a DreamLink T-5 with up to say "three" receivers (and with or "not-with" a Power Inserter)... What is BEST set-up method ??? Best "Switch" ???

If I remember correctly I read somewhere (prolly either on a 500+ dish assembly or on a (Hi - Def.) DPP - LNB Assembly ) instructions...

Let's say that "IF" for instance, using a 500+ (eliptical-type) high-def. type of dish with a (DPP+ high-def. LNB's- Assembly) for say three Sats., the 118/119 combo and 110 -

AND THEN you decided to use the "IN" port for an "ADDITIONAL FOURTH Sat. (129 in THIS case) by adding and wiring in an additional (DP-logo)- lnb-type into the "IN" port of the lnb-assembly to provide a 4th Sat. being again,(129 in THIS case)...

Does wiring INTO the "IN" port for the 4th Sat. shut OFF the internal automatic switches of the DPP LNB's ???
Does using that "in" port for a 4th lnb/Sat. FORCE the need to use a switch because the "IN" port use closed the internal auto- switches of the DPP lnb's ???

So, again, along with what's "already" in this tread the additional questions of about this set-up basicly are...

1) Can a ground-block even be used in this type of install instead of using a switch or does it "have" to be used with a switch, something like a DP-34 or DPP-44 switch and also along with a Power-Insertor because the DPP+ LNB's "starve and DreamLink T-5's do not supply enough of power ???

2) When adding a 4th DP logo lnb to this DPP+ type of lnb assembly by wiring this 4th lnb into the "IN" port of the DPP lnb port for an additional 4th Sat., does this "SHUT OFF" the internal automatic switching abilities of the DPP lnb's by wiring into the "in" port ???

It ALL just seemed to go along with this tread that already existed when I read it, so, I figured I'd ask these questions here with hope of some answers and hope of saving a lot of grief to some peeps in the future that may be trying to set up their T-5 with something similar to what is described above...

Hope there's no ill feelings of a "hi-jack" ;-))) Was not my intention... May the forces of a smooth install be with you ALL ;-)))

Terryl
06-18-2015, 07:23 PM
Answers to most.

#1 No, the DP34 switch should only be used with a receiver to power it, this switch is an older style switch and was used to connect 3 DP single LNB's to 4 dish receivers, the dish receiver can supply more DC power then most FTA receivers. A DPP44 power inserter may over power the DP34 switch as it puts out over 20 volts DC at 1.5 amps.

#2 A 4 in 4 out ground block ???? There would be no set way to attach the coaxes to it, just don't switch the in's and out's. (You didn't mean a 4x4 switch did you?)

#3 If you are talking about a switch then you have it right, #1 = 119W, #2 = 110W, #3 = 129W and #4 = 118W, the DC power inserter always goes on the #1 receiver port.

#4 On a Dish 500 + using a single LNB for 110 and the dual LNB for 118/119, you need the DP34 switch, the Dish 500 + single setup LNB's do not have an "IN" port, you would need the DPP44 switch to use a third external LNB.

The only DP LNB's that have an "IN" port are the DPP twin LNB used for 110/119 or 91/82, and the D1000 LNB used for 110/119/129 or 61.5, 72.7 and 77, they have a external LNB input connector, they also have an internal DP switch, Diseqc switching is the same as a DPP44 switch, if you add a second LNB to this setup you will need extra DC power, a DPP44 power inserter should be used.

Wiring to the input on these types of LNB does not shut off any of the internal switching.

The only time you would need to add a DPP44 switch to any of these types of LNB setup is when you need to run more then 2 receivers, this because most FTA receivers do not like the receiver connection on the DPP44 power inserter, the power inserter need to be on it's own coax out to the switch's #1 receiver port, this only leaves you 2 connections for receivers, or 3 receivers on a DPP44 switch, the nice thing is that you can cascade the DPP44 switch for a total of 9 receivers, each switch requires a DP44 power inserter.

If you use a DPP44 switch you do not need a ground block, it has a ground connection lug on it, grounding a metal cased switch will ground the system.

zatopit
06-19-2015, 09:14 PM
Thanks again for moving this to the correct place and VERY sorry once again for hijack :-(((

#2 I'm guessing you are 100% correct... it "is" a switch and NOT a grounding block..

#4 The pan is a 500+ elip. and the box says the lnb assembly is also a 500+ Hi-Def. The type that has "extra" attachment to add 129 DP lnb.

So, it's a DPP-HD- 500+ LNB Assembly (similar to the 1000+) that comes with 118 /119 combo lnb, a 110 lnb and comes also with the attachable bracket for adding 1 more additional lnb onto the bracket and then wiring it into the "IN" port.

I'm guessing it would convert the assembly into what would be considered a "Hi-Def. western arc" 1000.4 (with the 129 going onto the bracket and then wiring into the "IN" port of the lnb assembly)...

Says on the box it's a ( DPP-500+ Hi-Def LNB Assembly ) and comes with an "extra add on bracket" to support up to one more "additional" lnb...

THAT is where I was confused and wondering if wiring "IN" the extra lnb on extra bracket would shut down the DPP internal DP switching mechanisim... The 500+ instructions call for a DPP-44 switch but depending on what receivers one is using, how many and how long the runs to the receivers are I'm "guessing" some have stated that the 44 switch was NOT necessary for up to three receivers BUT if problems arose it suggester to add a Power Insertor due to the fact that he big DPP+ LNB's are so "power-Hungry" to begin with...

Does THIS sound right now ???

Terryl
06-19-2015, 11:28 PM
Yup, sounds like a power problem, as most FTA receivers can handle that load, 3 LNB's plus the internal switch will run you over the 500 mA that most FTA receiver are designed to put out.

Go with the DPP44 switch, it will take care of your problems.

To hook it up you run the coax from the LNB for 119 into the #1 LNB input on the switch, then the coax from the LNB for 110 goes to the #2 LNB input port, the cox from the LNB for 129 (if used) needs to go to the #3 port and the coax from the LNB for 118 needs to go to the #4 port.

The DC power inserter for the DPP44 switch needs to be on it's own coax, it runs to the #1 receiver port on the switch, do not attach a reciver to the DC power inserters reciver port as some FTA reciver do not like this as a LNB connection.

This gives you receiver ports #2, 3 and 4 on the switch to be used for FTA receivers.

If you need more receivers then 3 you can add a second DPP44 switch connected to the cascade outputs on the first switch, you will also need to connect the DC power supply like the first.

zatopit
06-20-2015, 12:16 PM
YOU are a GOOD PERSON Terryl !!!

THANK-YOU..... For the time, interest and expert professional knowledge...

From a VERY Grateful hobbyist :-)))