Easiest way to switch between two STB's?

[bobmofo101]

Hey everyone, here's my setup:

Single line coming into the apartment. I cannot easily add a second line from the 1000.2 dish outside.

I have one TV, a subbed IRD, and an FTA box, each with separate HDMI outputs to the TV's respective inputs. I'd like to know the best / recommended way to easily switch the satellite signal between the receivers.

Some options I've considered.


LNB out from the Jynxbox v7 to provider IRD. - Generally speaking, this does not seem to be recommended. And from the playing around I did on my Dreamlink T5 (now sold and gone) the subbed receiver messed around with the FTA's signal even when in "off" mode--unless you ether physically unscrewed the coax or powered off the other receiver by unplugging it.
Putting a Push-On connector onto the sat cable so that I can just physically move it back and forth between boxes easily.
Getting some kind of A/B switch for coax.



I know the ideal situation would be to have two separate lines coming in--Line 1 to the provider box going to LNB 1 on the dish, and line 2 for the FTA, but that's not very feasible right now because I'm limited in what I can do to the building.

What would you all recommend? I wish I could just have them both hooked up at the same time but that doesn't seem like a realistic option considering there's only one line coming in. Ideas? Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks!

[Hunter11]

Yes if you are only watching one at a time then a simple A/B switch will work fine, I would however recommend you turn the recievers off the rear whenever you switch from one to another or you could be replacing some hardware do to possible power spike.

[bobmofo101]

I would however recommend you turn the recievers off the rear whenever you switch from one to another or you could be replacing some hardware do to possible power spike.

Shoot, my 211z doesn't have a rear power switch. This would involve yanking the power cord every time it's switched.

[Hunter11]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU6uaiRbvWI
If you are a bit handy you could splice an inline on/off switch on the power cord. Other alternatives would be like a device like the clapper, clap on clap off.... the clapper. lol. There are similar devices with remote controls to cut your power. I use one similar to this for the lights on my Christmas tree and in the summer I use it to control my bug zapper in the back of my yard.





Shoot, my 211z doesn't have a rear power switch. This would involve yanking the power cord every time it's switched.

[Terryl]

The providers receiver will not work on the IF output from your FTA receiver.

And using an A/B switch will be risky, you could blow something that would not be fix able.

The best bet is to run a second coax from the D1000 LNB to the receiver. (in some cases there would be no way around it)

And turning the power on and off on the providers receiver is not a good idea.

[bobmofo101]

The providers receiver will not work on the IF output from your FTA receiver.
We'll see when then jynx gets here but on the T5 the provider receiver worked just fine through the LNB out on the T5 when it was switched off at the back. The problem I ran into was that the FTA receiver didn't act right, so I would have to detach the provider box every time i wanted to use the FTA.

The fact of the matter is that I can't run a 2nd line right now so need to figure out another way. I know it's the best, but not feasible since I don't own the property and don't have permission.

[Terryl]

Your lucky it didn't burn it out, the providers receiver when it detects the D1000 LNB will send out almost 20 volts DC, this is continuous, I don't know how long an FTA receivers IF input can take that. (this is why the FTA box didn't work too good)

This may be why the LNB worked at all, the normal FTA receiver can not power the D1000 LNB for very long, not without some type of long term damage to the FTA receiver, and I don't think the Jynxbox receiver will do this without possibly some sort of damage.

The D1000 LNB need at least 750 mA of DC current to run right, most FTA receivers can only put out 500 mA, so it may not last too long.

[Hunter11]

Do you have a window access to the sats, you can point a small dish through certain types of glass. Just spit ball'in here folks.

[jvvh5897]

Hum.. how about using the prov box to run the dish, and tapping off the LNB in line to the FTA with a splitter--the DC pass port to the prov box and the DC block port to the FTA box. You would have to set the prov box to a channel that lets the FTA box get the TP set you need and that does mean you will have to change channels on the Prov box at times to get the right sat/polarity. A bit odd to run that way but I had to do it for a while when one box I used had no diseqc control.

[skywalker999]

Well believe it or not there myth be a way i have seen it myself and it was done by a bev3 tech at a friends house he used two cable splitters like the ones on this pic first you use one splitter close to the dish 2 small cables from the dish network dp lnb to the 2 outputs on the splitter and the cable going to the house connects to input and with the second splitter inside the house doit in reverse mode the cable coming in to the house connect to the input and two cables one to the fta receiver and the other to the dish network receiver
my friend he has two bev3 hd receivers connected that way

2348123482

[bobmofo101]

Well believe it or not there myth be a way i have seen it myself and it was done by a bev3 tech at a friends house he used two cable splitters like the ones on this pic first you use one splitter close to the dish 2 small cables from the dish network dp lnb to the 2 outputs on the splitter and the cable going to the house connects to input and with the second splitter inside the house doit in reverse mode the cable coming in to the house connect to the input and two cables one to the fta receiver and the other to the dish network receiver
my friend he has two bev3 hd receivers connected that way

2348123482

Hmm, to me it doesn't seem like a good idea to try to multiplex LNBs like that in the same cable.

I think what I'm probably going to do is just make an RG6 cable with one push-on end that goes from my wall jack to the STB. Then I can just pop it off of one and onto the other quickly. I just need to see if they make compression fittings that are push-on f-connectors. I have all of the tools. I think it should still make a good enough connection to work. It's just a pain in the ass to un-screw the cable and re-screw it every time.

[Terryl]

Well believe it or not there myth be a way i have seen it myself and it was done by a bev3 tech at a friends house he used two cable splitters like the ones on this pic first you use one splitter close to the dish 2 small cables from the dish network dp lnb to the 2 outputs on the splitter and the cable going to the house connects to input and with the second splitter inside the house doit in reverse mode the cable coming in to the house connect to the input and two cables one to the fta receiver and the other to the dish network receiver
my friend he has two bev3 hd receivers connected that way

2348123482

Dish and BEV OEM receivers are the only ones that can be done this way.

FTA receivers can't, they don't have the software to do so.

A dish DP (or BEV) twin LNB does not need to have both outputs tied together with a splitter, both satellites with all transponders are available at all outputs, then a Dish pro separator is used at the reciver end.

[Terryl]

Hmm, to me it doesn't seem like a good idea to try to multiplex LNBs like that in the same cable.

I think what I'm probably going to do is just make an RG6 cable with one push-on end that goes from my wall jack to the STB. Then I can just pop it off of one and onto the other quickly. I just need to see if they make compression fittings that are push-on f-connectors. I have all of the tools. I think it should still make a good enough connection to work. It's just a pain in the ass to un-screw the cable and re-screw it every time.


What you can try is to use a DP separator, tie the #1 satellite port on the separator to the VIP211, then the best guess is will the FTA receiver work on the #2 satellite port??

23484

[Glatt]

Very simple solution is to use a Mag254 with no Sats at all, just ethernet connection!!

[bobmofo101]

Very simple solution is to use a Mag254 with no Sats at all, just ethernet connection!!

I have one; didn't like the streaming quality. We'll see if/when a solid product is rolled out, I know it's early testing phases...but right now the quality just doesn't compare.

[jvvh5897]

I've never seen push-on F connectors sold, but you can buy cables with push-on F at both ends--then you just have to buy a female-female F barrel connector to mate it to you coax. I use that type of cable for a test TV I have on my test bench.

[bobmofo101]

That sounds like just the thing, thanks!

[jvvh5897]

I'm not responsible for damage to your equipment. I would recommend the splitter with DC pass and block method.

[jets]

This might work. Get an Ecoda 22KHZ switch, I heard diseqc command will work after the 22 KHZ on this switch. Connect sub to 22K OFF port and STB to 22KHz ON port. In the STB settings, set diseqc for each or the DIK sat's and 22KHz ON. On the sub do nothing it's just a pass through... Think it works.

[Terryl]

Sorry but wrong direction, a 22 KHz switch works with the single port controlling the two switched ports, it wont work the other direction.

[Terryl]

I've never seen push-on F connectors sold, but you can buy cables with push-on F at both ends--then you just have to buy a female-female F barrel connector to mate it to you coax. I use that type of cable for a test TV I have on my test bench.

They sell them, I use them all the time for TV installs.


http://www.showmecables.com/product/F-Type-Male-Push-On-to-F-Type-Female-Adapter.aspx