5 LNB Setup Power Requirements

[jabroni]

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[jvvh5897]

As I understand switches, they only power the LNB that is switched on. So, power needs do not change with the number of LNBs, though the sw themselves take some power to run. Each receiver will power the LNB and sw it is using so a 2 receiver setup should not change things either.

Now the sws that you are talking about I know nothing of, so that might change things a lot, but MO.

[jabroni]

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[Terryl]

A 3x4 switch is an old legacy style, it's for 3 legacy LNB's (2 outputs per LNB one at 13 volts the other at 18 volts) for 6 inputs, to 4 receivers.

If you trying for a 5 satellite setup then you need all the same type LNB's (all legacy, all standard or all DP singles) then the appropriate switch oe combination of switches.

But remeber the more stuff you add to the systen the greater the system signal loss will be, every switch is going to add 3 60 6 dB of signal loss, every coax jumper is going to add 3 to 6 dB of signal loss.

EMP makes about every combination of receiver/LNB switch you may need but they are expensive.

If your LNB's are all the same then use 2 Diseqc switches, one on each system then a 22 KHz switch to go between them.

[Glatt]

Simply put 82/91 on sw21 switch and then to port 4 on diseqc! That way you have 5 LNB's!

[jabroni]

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[Mavrick]

I know this has been beaten to death in the forums, but I just want to confirm whether or not there are any extra power requirements in a 5 lnb one or two receiver setup. I need to buy some switches out of town and want to make sure I have everything I need.

Here is my starting point...

18"x24" elliptical dish picking up 110/119/129 going into a 4x1 BAFF diseqc

standard Bell oval dish picking up 91/82 going into SW44 (this I will be changing since a lot of FTAs do not like SW44

The way I was going to wire it...

- 110/119/129 going into BAFF, out of BAFF going into OFF of ecoda 22 kHz switch
- 82/91 combined with an SW21 (or 2x1 diseqc) going into ON of ecoda 22 kHz switch
- or ideally if it would work... 82/91 coming out from my subbed bev SW44 into the ON of ecoda 22 kHz switch
- out of ecoda 22 kHz switch going into receiver

- to keep my subbed BEV isolated, I would need to add two 3x4 apsen switches and split before the SW44. ie two 2 91 lines from lnb into 3x4, two lines out to SW44, two 82 lines from into another 3x4, two lines out to SW44. Than the FTA could use take offs of the 3x4 switches combining with 2x1 diseqcs.

With the above setup, are there any special power requirements or is the receiver able to power everything. Obviously it would be so easy if the FTA gets along with the SW44 as all I would need is a single ecoda for one FTA.

In previous testing, I have concluded that Nfusion HD does not like SW44, and Viewsat 9000 HD does...but not well.

How about the Dreamlink T5? Does that play nicely with SW44?

If you use two 4X4's instead of two 3X4's you could then connect the 2 receivers you wanted and have your Bev sub isolated, just remember to put the 91 & 82 LNB's on the "off" side of the 4X4's otherwise the SW44 will not see them, 110 & 119 would go on the "on" side of the 4X4's and that would leave only 3 feeds to combine to your FTA receiver which fits nicely onto a diseqc switch (or 2 diseqcs for 2 receivers).

[Terryl]

As I understand switches, they only power the LNB that is switched on. So, power needs do not change with the number of LNBs, though the sw themselves take some power to run. Each receiver will power the LNB and sw it is using so a 2 receiver setup should not change things either.

Now the sws that you are talking about I know nothing of, so that might change things a lot, but MO.


This all depends on the switch design, some single reciver Diseqc switches will only power the one LNB that is addressed, there are some that will power all attached LNB's.

One way to test this is to use two 9 volt battery's, a couple of alligator jumper wires, a few short pieces of center conductor and a DVM.

Connect the two 9 volt battery's one plus end of one to one minus end of the other, insert the center conductor pieces into all the "F" connectors on the switch, one jumper wire goes to the minus side of the battery's then to the switches case, the other jumper wire goes from the plus side of the battery pack to the center conductor coming out of the "to receiver" "F" connector. (if you have an adjustable DC power supply you can use it)

Use the DVM to see what your input voltage is, it should be around 18 volts, now check the LNB inputs on the switch, if all 4 (or more) ports read the same voltage (17.4 down to 14 volts) then the switch will power all 4 (or more) LNB's at once.

Then you will have DC current problems if the combined DC current load of all attached LNB's exceeds the receivers LNB input spec. (500 mA max on 95% of the FTA receivers)