Quirky DPP 1000.2 internal switch issue

[HubzPub]

I bought a new DPP 1000.2 dish recently and am pointed at 110/119/129.
I had a terrible time getting 129 to lock in on my Limesat Air HD, whereas NFusion HD would lock on just fine when put on the same Port (Has 1000ma Power)
I finally got Limesat Air to lock and scan, but here's the weird part:
The stb lnb power has to be turned on for either stb to lock on, and they each work if the other is turned off.
Turning off the Power inserter makes no difference.
The power is obviously being provided via port 2 or 3 and not port 1, since the receivers get hot whether or not the inserter is plugged in.

My understanding is that the internal switch will only power the lnbs through Port 1....What the f*@k is going on?

I have a power inserter on Port 1 all by itself. Verified DC voltage without load is 27-28 volts.
Nano2ilink on port 2
Limesat Air HD on port 3

I only have 2 possible ideas:
1-The internal switch is bad
2-I was sent the wrong power inserter, mine says Videopath 123475909 and it does not say DPP on it.
Transformer 24v dc 1000ma #P52741000K030G

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Update- I discovered that my power inserter is for a SW64 switch, maybe the internal diseq on the 1000.2 does not like the frequency?

[Terryl]

The power inserter is correct, it will run the 3 head LNB from dish just fine.

Port #1 is the primary DC input port, and should fine for any FTA receiver, the Diseqc switch settings are as follows, Diseqc port #1 = 119, Diseqc port #2 = 110, Diseqc port #3 = 129, Diseqc port #4 is for an external DP single LNB.

With the power inserter on port #1 and not going to any switch first, then it should not matter what the power setting are on the receivers, the LNB is getting it's DC power from an external device.

You said you had an NFusion HD that puts out 1000mA, use that receiver on the LNB port #1, then it should run the LNB just fine with out the power inserter.

Also make sure your coax is rated to 2.5 GHz or better as the D1000 LNB uses a higher frequency band for the other polarity's from the satellite.

OCS-DP is the setting for the LNB type.

[HubzPub]

Thanks Terryl you are the expert on this and I have learned alot from your posts!

I have the ports set correctly and I get full scans on both stb's.
It's the power that has me miffed, it seems to make no difference if #1 has the inserter turned on or off.
Neither stb will lock signal unless I turn on one of their lnb power settings. (one or the other works)
#2 and/or #3 stb's are powering the internal switch somehow, and they get a bit hot doing it.
I'm pretty sure I had the NFHD on Port 1 before and it would not lock unless one of the other stb's was st to lnb power on.
I will try that again tonight.
You got me on the Coax though, mine is from the old setup and is 2.2ghz, I will put that on my list.

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Update: I hooked the NFHD to port #1 instead of the power inserter.
Same result, if trying to use the Nano2ilink on port 2 or the Limesat AirHD on port #3, the power must be on or signal fails to lock.
I also realized that the 2.2 ghz cable is the same stuff I strung through the attic and down the walls. What a P.I.T.A that will be to swap out. But, I don't believe that has anything to do with the lnb power mystery.

[HubzPub]

So I thought I had a bad LNB/switch so I ordered a new one.
I'll be damned if it isnt exactly the same.
I tested all 3 coax for shorts and clean connections, all OK.
I also verified that the 3 cables are correctly numbered on each end.
None of my 3 receivers will work on port 2 or 3 unless internal lnb power is enabled.
Power inserter or NFHD box used on Port 1 makes no difference.
I'm still miffed since Port 1 is supposedly the only port that can power the LNBs.
This seems to defy the logic of how the 1000.2 is supposed to work.
Any ideas?

[StanW]

A bit confused here with the lnb power - from what I have seen lnb power has to be set to on in order for power to be sent to a lnb .

Is your dish/switch grounded ?

[Terryl]

And did you replace or check the coax, the Dish 1000 LNB needs a coax rated to 2.5 GHz or swept to 3 GHz, or you will have some problems.

Also on some installations with a long run of coax to the receivers, or the receivers in different parts of the house, you may need an RF ground, a 4 port ground block (rated for satellite work to 3 GHz) should be used for this, connect it to an outdoor metal cold water pipe, or it's own ground rod, the main AC electrical service ground (outside) should only be used if you don't have access to any of the first two.

Note to you installers:

Don't jump all over me for the use of the metal water pipe or ground rod, some of you have been instructed to use the main AC service ground, as this is the cheapest and easiest way, but not the best way. Some of you are also forced to do it that way as some dingbat in the county inspectors office doesn't know what he/she is doing and has prescribed it as local code.

[ramrod]

I have had and still use the 1000.2 since it hit the market and never used a power inserter as it was not needed. all seven stb brands i used over the years "powered it up". legacy or dp lnb will work with the port 4 lnb input...ant settings accordingly. lnb power has to be on for the lnbs you are using.

[Terryl]

A bit confused here with the lnb power - from what I have seen lnb power has to be set to on in order for power to be sent to a lnb .

Is your dish/switch grounded ?

If receiver "A" is supping enough DC power to the LNB, then receivers "B" and "C" do not need to.

Unless something has been changed with the LNB inputs and it now takes a DC voltage to activate them, but my D1000's here will work fine if the power is off on ports 2 and 3.

[StanW]

Thanks - learned something new today .

[Terryl]

I have had and still use the 1000.2 since it hit the market and never used a power inserter as it was not needed. all seven stb brands i used over the years "powered it up". legacy or dp lnb will work with the port 4 lnb input...ant settings accordingly. lnb power has to be on for the lnbs you are using.

The D1000 LNB's are power hogs, they need at least 600 mA of DC current to run correctly, I did a bench test many months ago on this problem and found this to be true, I tested 10 Dish 1000 LNB's and the average DC power load was 625 mA, it also goes up when you add a second LNB to the input.

And according to dish engineering specifications on that LNB the # 4 LNB input has to be a DP type LNB.

If your receivers can only put out 500 mA, and you have been running them on a 600 mA load, then you have been lucky.

100 mA does not sound like much but it can put an excessive load on the receivers power supply, this can lead to a failure over time.

A note to those that may try and measure the DC current, you cant, you need a specialty modified Dish receiver, or RF current interface to do so.

[HubzPub]

If receiver "A" is supping enough DC power to the LNB, then receivers "B" and "C" do not need to.

Unless something has been changed with the LNB inputs and it now takes a DC voltage to activate them, but my D1000's here will work fine if the power is off on ports 2 and 3.

That's why I don't get it. A has 1000mw at 18v but neither B or C will work unless their power is turned on.

i.e:
A is an NFHD just for power 18v dc
B is a Limesat Air HD, bars show red (not locking on) until it's lnb power is set to on, then it locks to green instantly.
C is a Nono2iLink, acts just like the Limesat.

I am not using the DPP44 for now until I figure this out, I have a good quality grounding block that has copper straight to a copper ground stake at the Electric Meter.
Since my coax is rated 2.2 ghz, I got some rated coax and tested it temporarily, made no difference.
I'm not getting up in the attic to pull new coax this time of year!